The Art of Chain Stitching: Raw Denim & Wash Raw Denim Explained

The Art of Chain Stitching - Pride N Joy Co
The Art of Chain Stitching: Raw Denim & Wash Raw Denim Explained
The Art of Chain Stitching - Pride N Joy Co

For denim purists, every stitch tells a story. At Pride N'Joy, we believe that authenticity is found in the smallest details, and one of the most iconic details is found at the hem of raw denim jeans. We are proud to preserve this tradition with the use of chain-stitched hems, a nod to the golden era of denim.

Understanding Raw Denim and Chain Stitching

In the world of true denim craftsmanship, especially with dry denim and unwashed raw denim, the hem is more than just a finishing touch. A chain stitch, created by the legendary Union Special 43200G machine, delivers not only durability but also the signature roping effect. This subtle, twisted look around the hem becomes more pronounced as the denim fades and shrinks naturally through wear, giving each pair of raw denim pants a unique character over time with natural creases and signs of wear unique to your body.

Since the 1960s, this rare machine has been hunted down by Japanese denim makers, and by the late 1980s, when Union Special ceased production, the 43200G had already achieved cult status. Today, only a few brands worldwide still commit to using this machine. Pride N'Joy is proud to be one of them, especially in crafting heavyweight selvedge denim with reinforced stitching.

While modern production shifted toward lock stitching for speed and cost efficiency, we stick with the heritage method. Chain stitching may be more delicate, as one loose thread can unravel the whole chain, but that’s part of the charm. It’s about honoring the imperfections and beauty of vintage craftsmanship found in raw denim jeans that have not gone through the pre-washing process or sanforization, which prevents shrinkage post-wear and helps your denim fit evolve.

To wash raw denim properly after months of wear, it’s important to understand the washing process that preserves the fabric's durability and helps maintain the integrity of the chain-stitched hems. Many enthusiasts prefer to wash raw denim only after significant signs of wear develop, allowing the denim to develop wear unique to your body. Some prefer to cuff them at the ankle to showcase the roped hem and selvedge edge.

At Pride N'Joy, we don’t just sell denim but we carry on a legacy. Every hem we create is a testament to our belief in slow fashion, attention to detail, and respect for denim history. When you wear Pride N'Joy, you’re not just wearing a pair of raw denim pants, you’re wearing a piece of the denim story.

What Is Special About Raw Denim?

Raw denim is unwashed, untreated denim that allows the wearer’s body shape and habits to create natural creases and fades over time, resulting in a pair of jeans that are truly unique to the individual.

What Are the Downsides of Raw Denim?

Raw denim requires patience and care; it can feel stiff initially, may shrink if not properly pre-washed or sanforized, and the washing process must be done carefully to avoid damaging the fabric or the chain-stitched hems.

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